Le Trèfle Incarnat, launched by LT Piver in 1896, is a fragrance that carries with it an evocative name: Le Trèfle Incarnat. This French title translates to "The Scarlet Clover" or "The Red Clover" in English, with "trèfle" meaning "clover" and "incarnat" meaning "scarlet" or "flesh-colored." Pronounced "luh treh-fluh in-car-nah," the name itself invokes images of lush fields and vibrant blooms. The word trèfle (clover) conjures a sense of natural beauty, simplicity, and charm, while incarnat adds a rich, almost sensual depth, calling to mind the vivid, passionate hue of red, which in the context of perfume suggests a fragrance that is both delicate and intense.
At the time of its launch, the late 19th century was a period marked by transition and innovation. Known as the Victorian era in England and the Belle Époque in France, this was a time of refinement, luxury, and progress. Women were embracing the ideals of beauty and grace, with fashions that emphasized elegance and femininity—corsets, long flowing skirts, and delicate lace were the epitome of style. Socially, women were becoming more independent, yet still very much bound to the conventions of the time. Perfumes such as Le Trèfle Incarnat were seen not just as luxuries but as expressions of personal refinement and social status.
The name Le Trèfle Incarnat likely appealed to women of the period for its connotations of both beauty and nature, two themes that were widely celebrated at the time. The clover, a humble yet resilient flower, was a symbol of good fortune and delicate charm, while "incarnat" lent a touch of sophistication and richness. The fragrance itself, composed of a floral bouquet with hints of animalic notes, would have been both soothing and stimulating, embodying the floral elegance that women of the era would have associated with femininity.
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Scent-wise, Le Trèfle Incarnat would have been interpreted as a complex and harmonious blend of floral freshness and underlying warmth. The carnation and red clover fragrance itself was groundbreaking for its time, being the first to use artificial essential oils and, notably, the first to incorporate iso-amyl salicylate, an aroma chemical created by Russian-born chemist Georges Darzens. This chemical, along with other synthetic compounds such as ionone and heliotropin, contributed to the perfume’s distinct clover note, capturing the essence of a delicate floral, with its slightly green, honeyed character, and imbuing it with an exotic and modern twist. The use of amyl salicylate and other artificial ingredients added an intensity to the scent, one that would have felt both novel and luxurious to a society on the brink of the 20th century.
In the context of perfumery, clover had long been a popular motif, appearing in several fragrance formulas of the time. However, Le Trèfle Incarnat distinguished itself with its combination of natural floral elements and synthetic innovations, marking a turning point in the development of modern perfumes. The fragrance’s use of eugenol and iso-eugenol to create a clove-like warmth added another layer to the perfume, combining the green freshness of the clover with the spicy depth of clove, enveloping the wearer in a scent that was at once invigorating and comforting.
The creation of Le Trèfle Incarnat by Jacques Rouchè, assisted by Pierre Armingeat, was part of LT Piver's ambition to stay at the forefront of perfumery innovation, as well as their dedication to creating fragrances that would resonate with the sophisticated tastes of their clientele. The perfume’s distinction as the first to utilize artificial chemicals like iso-amyl salicylate marked a bold step forward in the evolution of fragrance chemistry. Not just a scent, but a glimpse into the future of perfumery, Le Trèfle Incarnat reflected the Belle Époque’s spirit of progress, beauty, and innovation.
Le Trefle Incarnat was available in a variety of products:
- Parfum (extrait/essence)
- Eau de Toilette
- Eau Vegetale
- Lotion
- Soap
- Face Powder
- Talc
Fragrance Composition:
So what does it smell like? It is classified as a fougere floral fragrance for women.
- Top notes: eugenol, orange, Mitcham lavender, neroli, jonquil, bergamot, clover, iso-amyl salicylate
- Middle notes: iso-eugenol, Dianthine, ionone, jasmine, clove, carnation, tuberose, ylang ylang, orange blossom, rose, orris, heliotropin
- Base notes: ambergris, vanilla, musk, tonka bean, Siamese benzoin, oakmoss, Orchidee extra (Chuit Naef), coumarin, vanillin
Scent Profile:
Le Trèfle Incarnat opens with a complex blend of top notes that immediately captivate the senses, each one distinct yet harmoniously intertwined. The first impression is a rush of eugenol, a sharp, spicy aroma reminiscent of cloves, filling the air with its warm, slightly woody and peppery scent. It’s as though you’ve just crushed a fresh clove between your fingers, releasing its fiery richness. Alongside it, the orange note bursts forth with a bright, zesty sweetness that cuts through the spiciness, infusing the atmosphere with a lively, citrusy freshness.
This is soon complemented by the calming, herbaceous scent of Mitcham lavender, which introduces a soft, floral-green note, evoking a rolling field of lavender in full bloom. Neroli follows with its characteristic honeyed sweetness, like a delicate veil of orange blossoms that adds a touch of elegance to the composition. Jonquil enters with its slightly green, fresh floral scent, akin to the early days of spring, its subtle sweetness blending smoothly with the brighter, citrus notes.
Bergamot amplifies the opening with its fresh, aromatic citrus touch, which has a hint of bitterness but is more lively and slightly spicy, enhancing the zestiness of the orange. Then comes clover, with its soft, sweet, green scent, reminding you of a freshly mowed lawn or a meadow at the height of bloom. This fresh, verdant aroma is further heightened by iso-amyl salicylate, an artificial compound that infuses the perfume with a delicate, clover-like scent, both powdery and slightly sweet, creating a bridge from the fresh, green top notes to the floral heart.
As the fragrance develops, the heart notes unfurl, revealing a rich, floral bouquet interwoven with deeper, spicier elements. The iso-eugenol, a compound derived from cloves, adds a rich, sweet-spicy warmth that melds seamlessly with the opening eugenol, reinforcing the spicy, woody backbone of the fragrance. Dianthine contributes a soft, delicate floral aroma with a light, green, almost soapy quality, adding a gentle freshness to the composition.
Ionone, with its powdery, soft floral aroma that hints at violets, deepens the bouquet with a smooth, slightly woody note, enhancing the fragrance’s overall elegance. The jasmine is intoxicating, its deep, rich floral scent unfolding with creamy, slightly indolic sweetness that adds a lush, romantic element to the fragrance. A subtle heat is brought by clove, which adds warmth, spiciness, and a hint of earthiness, blending beautifully with the sweetness of the other flowers.
Carnation brings an additional layer of spice, with a peppery, sweet, and floral scent that evokes the old-world charm of vintage gardens. Tuberose then appears, creamy and heady, with its voluptuous, almost fruity floral fragrance that is both exotic and luxurious. The perfume continues to unfold with the lush, sensual sweetness of ylang-ylang, which has a creamy, almost banana-like scent, imparting a rich, tropical warmth. Orange blossom joins the symphony with its light, airy floral aroma, sweet and fresh, evoking a sense of innocence and purity.
The classic fragrance of rose follows with its soft, elegant, and slightly spicy floral note, adding a timeless, romantic element. Orris adds a velvety, powdery floral scent that is soft and elegant, rounding out the floral heart with a rich, almost creamy undertone. Finally, heliotropin brings a soft, sweet almond-like scent, with faint cherry nuances, adding a nostalgic warmth to the bouquet.
As the fragrance settles into its base, it becomes deeper, warmer, and more sensual. Ambergris adds a smooth, salty-sweet, animalic depth that evokes the feeling of a distant, exotic shore. It’s warm, slightly musky, and utterly captivating, like the air after a summer rain on the sea. Vanilla joins in with its creamy, sweet warmth, bringing a comforting, indulgent note that enhances the overall richness of the composition.
Musk deepens the scent, adding an animalic warmth that is soft, powdery, and sensual, blending beautifully with the sweet florals and rich base notes. Tonka bean follows with its sweet, warm, and slightly nutty fragrance, reminiscent of vanilla with hints of almond and spice, enveloping the wearer in a smooth, comforting sweetness. Siamese benzoin introduces a resinous warmth with its slightly balsamic, sweet, and vanilla-like scent, giving the fragrance a sense of richness and depth.
The earthy, woody note of oakmoss brings a grounding freshness, its green, damp aroma evoking the feeling of a forest floor, rich with moisture and life. Orchidee extra, a rare ingredient, adds a floral, animalic complexity, deepening the fragrance with a touch of mystery and opulence. Coumarin imparts a sweet, hay-like scent, reminiscent of freshly cut grass, with a slightly powdery edge that softens the heavier base notes. Finally, vanillin adds its rich, sweet, creamy fragrance, reinforcing the warmth and indulgence of the base, leaving a soft, lasting impression of comfort and luxury.
Each note in Le Trèfle Incarnat contributes to a complex, multifaceted experience that evolves from bright, fresh, and green top notes to a deep, floral heart and a rich, resinous, and sweet base, creating a fragrance that is at once lively, romantic, and luxurious.
Bottles:
Le Trèfle Incarnat Parfum (Essence) was presented in a clear, understated glass bottle with a four-leaf shaped ground glass stopper, a classic touch that evoked simplicity and purity. However, it was the striking chromolithograph paper label that truly caught the eye and served as the essence of the perfume’s aesthetic appeal. The label featured the elegant, flowing curves and intricate detail typical of Art Nouveau, a design movement that flourished at the turn of the 20th century. The graphics, in particular, were reminiscent of the works of Alphonse Mucha, a Czech artist who became synonymous with Art Nouveau with his iconic, sinuous illustrations that celebrated natural forms, feminine beauty, and intricate ornamentation. His style, characterized by decorative motifs, flowing lines, and harmonious compositions, emphasized the connection between art and nature. Mucha’s influence on the Art Nouveau movement was profound, and his ability to integrate decorative arts into everyday life transformed the visual language of commercial advertising, including perfumery.
The label for Le Trèfle Incarnat embodied the delicate balance of nature and elegance, featuring green three-leaved clovers and red clover blossoms, motifs that were repeated across the packaging, including on the bottles for the Eau de Toilette, liquid brilliantine, hair lotion, and face powder box, as well as on jars of face cream, cosmetic tubes, and even the glass box for the solid brilliantine. These elements, inspired by Mucha’s signature style, elevated the experience of the fragrance to an art form, emphasizing the beauty of the natural world and its integration into the realm of beauty and luxury. The ornate design reflected the sophistication and opulence of the time while also suggesting a harmony between nature and refined, high-class products.
The use of three-leaved clovers on the packaging was not just an aesthetic choice but also a meaningful symbol. The clover is traditionally associated with luck and fortune, making it a fitting emblem for a fragrance that sought to embody positivity and charm. Red clover, in particular, carries its own significance. Often regarded as a symbol of healing, abundance, and transformation, the red clover bloom represents vitality and life, its vibrant color symbolizing passion and energy. The choice of red clover was a deliberate nod to these attributes, evoking the idea of a fragrance that was both enlivening and transformative. The red hues and delicate, rounded blossoms mirrored the perfume’s character—warm, inviting, and full of life. The symbolism of the red clover was also a subtle reference to the growing interest in natural remedies during the period, where flowers and herbs were not only admired for their beauty but also revered for their medicinal and symbolic properties.
By incorporating these nature-inspired motifs into its packaging, LT Piver effectively conveyed a message of beauty, vitality, and elegance. The Art Nouveau style, with its flowing lines and organic patterns, captured the essence of the era’s fascination with both aesthetics and nature. In choosing to feature clover and red clover on the Le Trèfle Incarnat packaging, LT Piver not only paid homage to the beauty of the natural world but also infused the perfume with a sense of mystique and allure, making the fragrance an extension of the timeless connection between art, nature, and luxury.
The gorgeous graphics are also repeated on the talcum powder tin. The shaker top is fitted with a slide closure, it has a patent date of Aug. 2, 1921. On the bottom of the tin, there is a patent date of January 11, 1921. Approximate measurements 4.25" tall x 3.5" widest part of the tin. This 3.5 oz tin is marked "3 1/2 oz Net Contents Created by L.T. Piver Paris, Made in The U.S.A. by Their Successors L.T. Piver Inc. NY".
Fate of the Fragrance:
Le Trèfle Incarnat, launched in 1896, quickly became a beloved fragrance within the world of perfumery, capturing the elegance and intricacy of the period. Its delicate floral composition and the striking Art Nouveau design of its packaging set it apart from other fragrances of the time, making it a piece of both olfactory and visual art. The perfume’s distinctive blend of notes, including clover, ambergris, and vanilla, alongside the ornate packaging adorned with Art Nouveau graphics, drew admiration from both perfume enthusiasts and collectors of decorative arts. Unfortunately, while the perfume had a strong presence for several decades, it seems to have been discontinued at some point, though the exact date remains elusive. It continued to be available in some markets as late as 1954, a testament to its lasting appeal.
The allure of Le Trèfle Incarnat persists today, particularly among collectors who value the rare combination of Art Nouveau aesthetics and fine perfumery. The chromolithograph labels, featuring intricate three-leaved clovers and red clover blossoms, remain iconic symbols of the turn-of-the-century design movement, and as a result, Le Trèfle Incarnat has become a highly sought-after item in the world of vintage perfume collection. The Art Nouveau style, with its flowing lines, natural motifs, and ornamental detail, perfectly captures the spirit of an era that valued both artistry and craftsmanship in every aspect of life. For collectors, the perfume is not just about scent, but about preserving a piece of history, a moment in time when beauty and functionality merged seamlessly in a bottle.
Finding authentic pieces from the Le Trèfle Incarnat line, such as the parfum bottles, Eau de Toilette, and complementary items like hair lotion and face powder, is not an easy task. These long-lost artifacts are rare, and even more difficult to find in good condition due to their age and the fragility of glass packaging. The passing of time has only added to their allure, with many pieces being tucked away in private collections or fading into obscurity. For collectors who appreciate the craftsmanship and aesthetic value of Art Nouveau, Le Trèfle Incarnat remains a treasure worth seeking. Its rarity, combined with the historical significance of both the fragrance and its packaging, makes it a desirable item. Therefore, when the opportunity arises to acquire a piece from the Le Trèfle Incarnat line, it is highly recommended to act swiftly, as such artifacts are not only a reflection of the past but also an investment in preserving the beauty and legacy of a bygone era.
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