Misti by LT Piver c1912

Misti by L.T. Piver, launched in 1912 in France and arriving in the United States by 1915, is a fragrance that elegantly embodies its name and time. The name Misti is evocative and layered with meaning. Derived from the Quechua or Spanish language, Misti means "mixed," "mestizo," or "white," often referring to something with a snow-like quality or the snow cover on the dormant volcanic mountain, Misti, located in Peru. The pronunciation of Misti would be Mee-stee, simple and fluid in its sound, almost like a breath of fresh air. The imagery it conjures is one of crisp, cool, and ethereal landscapes, where snow softly blankets the earth beneath the mountain's towering presence. The word Misti evokes a sense of purity, clarity, and quiet strength—suggesting a serene yet striking beauty, much like the perfume itself. The emotional response to the name Misti may be one of calm, peacefulness, and the fleeting moment of dew on a cool morning.

The period in which Misti was launched, the early 1910s, was a time of significant transformation in the world, especially in fashion and social life. The years leading up to and including World War I were marked by shifts in style and attitude. Women, in particular, were embracing a new, more liberated way of dressing and living. The elaborate, corseted silhouettes of the Victorian era were being replaced by the more relaxed, flowing styles of the Edwardian period. The iconic "S-bend" corset was giving way to looser fits, with dresses that emphasized a natural waist and soft, draped fabrics. The Misti fragrance, with its delicate woodsy floral notes and "clean cut spiciness," would have appealed to women of this time who were stepping into a new sense of modernity and freedom. The 1910s were a time when women were asserting themselves more in the public sphere, entering the workforce in greater numbers and seeking fragrances that matched their evolving sense of independence and vitality.

Misti was described in a 1927 advertisement as capturing "the effect of a dew-drenched, moon-lit garden," and indeed, this delicate, woodsy floral fragrance perfectly embodies this idea. Its soft, fresh, and spiced scent evokes an image of a tranquil outdoor garden bathed in the gentle glow of moonlight. A "modernist version of the outdoors at large," as another advertisement from the same year described, Misti seems to encapsulate the purity and natural beauty of nature in a single, refined breath. Its "iridescence of a diamond," as noted in yet another ad, suggests a fragrance that is clear, sparkling, and sophisticated, just as diamonds are prized for their clarity and brilliance. Misti was promoted as a fragrance for "clear-cut youth and freshness," complementing the smart, day-to-day clothes worn by women of the time in both town and country settings. The imagery of "gardens in the sun" and "a spice of mischief teasing" adds a playful, lively dimension to the perfume, implying a fragrance that is both refined and spirited—a fitting match for the modern, adventurous woman.

In terms of personal style, Misti was often suggested for blondes who "love the outdoors," which indicates that the perfume was likely light, floral, and aldehydic, aligning with the bright, fresh characteristics associated with fairer complexions. During this period, perfume houses often advised women with blonde or fair features to wear lighter, floral fragrances or sporty scents, while brunettes and darker-complexioned women were recommended heavier, more oriental, chypre or spicy perfumes. This distinction was rooted in the belief that fragrance should complement one's natural coloring and personality. Misti’s airy, lively composition, with its woodsy, floral essence and subtle spice, would have resonated with women who were looking for a fragrance that matched their youthful energy, love of nature, and evolving roles in society.

Ultimately, Misti was more than just a fragrance; it was a symbol of the modern woman of the 1910s and 1920s, embracing both the elegance of nature and the promise of a bright future. With its delicate balance of floral sweetness, clean spiciness, and woodsy undertones, it encapsulated the fresh, optimistic spirit of an era on the brink of profound change.

 

At the 1900 Exposition, the House of L.T. Piver was fortunate to have the distinguished support of Master Besnard, who contributed his expertise to their booth. This partnership highlighted Piver’s strong connection to the finest artists of the time. In addition to Besnard’s involvement, René Lalique, the famed glassmaker and designer, played a pivotal role in shaping Piver’s visual identity during this period. Lalique created a series of iconic bottle designs for Piver, including those for Aeterna, Scarabée, Misti, and Ilka, which would go on to define the elegance and luxury associated with the brand.

Over the years, Piver's creations benefited from the talents of many other celebrated artists, further enhancing the house’s prestige. Artists such as Dufresne, Aubert, Rivaud, Mare, and Boutet de Monvel, among others, lent their skills and creativity to Piver’s perfume designs, illustrations, and packaging. These collaborations between Piver and renowned artists of the era created a blend of high art and fine fragrance, elevating the brand’s status within the competitive world of French perfumery. Through these artistic partnerships, L.T. Piver captured the spirit of the times, successfully blending fragrance with visual beauty and sophistication.

The period also marked a golden age for the intersection of art and commerce, where perfumery was not just about scent, but about crafting a complete aesthetic experience for the senses. With the involvement of prominent names in the art world, L.T. Piver was able to establish itself as a leader in both the creation of fine fragrances and in the visual arts surrounding them. This combination of artistic prowess and fragrant innovation helped shape the house's legacy as one of the most celebrated perfume brands of the time.

 

The Pharmaceutical Era Magazine of 1924 highlighted a special moment in the history of LT Piver, a brand that had become a well-established name in the world of perfumery. At the French Exposition, the firm marked its 150th anniversary with an impressive presentation that reflected its enduring legacy and innovation. The event stood as a significant celebration of Piver's century-and-a-half of success, with the company choosing to forgo a retail shop in Paris in favor of showcasing their creations at the Exposition, an ideal venue for reaching a wider audience and showcasing their refined products. The booth itself was designed to draw attention, featuring mirrors and lighted niches that highlighted their most exquisite offerings, including large bottles of perfume, which were displayed with great care.

Among the new fragrances introduced at this event were Misti, Velivole, and Vivitz, with Misti particularly standing out due to its unique packaging. The Misti perfume was presented in bottles crafted by Rene Lalique, a master of glass design whose creations were known for their artistry and elegance. The bottles were deeply enchanting, with butterflies pressed into the glass, giving the perfume an ethereal quality. The color of the bottles was a striking dark blue, which contrasted beautifully with the delicate white butterflies that seemed to flutter across the surface, capturing the imagination of anyone who caught a glimpse. The design was not just a vessel for fragrance, but an artistic expression that elevated the entire sensory experience. The marriage of Lalique's glass work with Piver’s scent compositions created a truly memorable and luxurious offering.

The overall ambiance of the LT Piver booth at the Exposition was designed to transport visitors into a world of refined beauty, where fragrance and art met in a spectacular display. The combination of mirrors, soft lighting, and the stunning glass bottles filled with exquisite perfumes created an environment that was both inviting and enchanting. The butterfly motif in the Misti packaging reinforced themes of transformation, delicacy, and nature, aligning perfectly with the style of the time, which emphasized the beauty of the natural world and its influence on artistic design. LT Piver’s ability to incorporate art into both its products and their presentation reflected the company’s ongoing commitment to creating not just perfumes, but entire experiences that lingered in the memory long after the scents had faded.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a delicate woodsy floral fragrance for women. 

• Top notes: neroli, bergamot, aldehydes, apple blossom, lemon, petitgrain, anise, fennel, acacia,
• Middle notes: mimosa, carnation, orchid, ylang ylang, tuberose, jasmine, violet, rose, lilac, cyclamen, honeysuckle
• Base notes: clove, benzoin, terpineol, coumarin, musk, rhodium, sandalwood, cedar, vetiver, patchouli, ambergris, tonka bean

 

Scent Profile:

As you breathe in the top notes of Misti, a cascade of fresh, bright, and invigorating scents envelops you. The sharp, green bitterness of neroli rises first, like the scent of freshly picked orange blossoms under a warm sun, their delicate petals moist with dew. This is quickly followed by the bright, zesty lift of bergamot, its citrusy tang cutting through the air with a refreshing bite, like a cool breeze over a volcanic landscape. 

A touch of aldehydes adds a sparkling, almost metallic edge to the air, evoking the glistening light off a snow-capped mountain, shining like ice under the early morning sun. The subtle sweetness of apple blossom enters next, soft and airy, like the faintest scent of fruit in the wind, mingling with the lemon that brightens the atmosphere with its lively, clean scent—sharp, uplifting, and invigorating, like a crisp morning walk across the snow. 

Petitgrain brings a soft, green warmth, evoking the scent of citrus trees swaying in a light breeze, while anise and fennel bring a faint, herbal spiciness, reminiscent of wild herbs growing at the mountain's edge. The floral richness of acacia rounds out the top notes, offering a sweet, golden aroma, as if the sun is warming the earth after the chill of the night, and the snow begins to melt, releasing nature’s bounty.

As the fragrance deepens, the heart notes unfold, bringing warmth and complexity to the cool, crystalline opening. Mimosa bursts forth with a soft, powdery sweetness, like the first blooms of spring dusting the snow-covered ground. Its soft yellow hue contrasts against the cool white snow, filling the air with its soft, delicate fragrance. Carnation adds a spicy, clove-like warmth, its petals rich and velvety, evoking the feeling of a gentle breeze sweeping across the land, carrying hints of floral spice. 

The lush, tropical aroma of orchid follows, creamy and sensual, like the rare blooms of an exotic flower growing against the backdrop of the rugged mountain. Ylang ylang and tuberose intensify the heart with their heady, opulent richness, their sweet, almost intoxicating floral notes evoking the pure, natural beauty of the environment surrounding the volcano, both delicate and fiercely alive. Jasmine adds a layer of softness, like the scent of flowers carried on the wind from a hidden garden. 

Violet and rose bring a classical floral sweetness, soft and romantic, like the petals that dot the snow-covered landscape, while the green, fresh air of lilac and cyclamen adds a whisper of woodland spring, mingling with the coolness of the snow. Honeysuckle wraps the middle notes in its sweet, honeyed embrace, evoking the sensation of nature waking up from its winter slumber, the warmth of spring emerging from beneath the cold.

Finally, the base notes ground the fragrance, providing depth and richness. The spicy warmth of clove emerges first, like the lingering heat of a volcanic eruption, offering a deep, almost smoky richness that contrasts with the coolness of the snow. Benzoin adds a balsamic sweetness, like the resin of ancient trees, which have witnessed centuries of change, grounding the fragrance with its warm, amber-like aroma. 

The clean, green freshness of terpineol blends with the sweet, herbaceous sweetness of coumarin, evoking the scent of fresh grass and herbs growing between the volcanic rocks. Musk and rhodium add depth, the musk evoking the earthiness of the mountain’s soil, and the rhodium imparting a subtle, metallic sheen, like the faint glimmer of ice on the peaks. Sandalwood brings a creamy, soft woodiness, like the smooth texture of a tree’s bark, while cedar adds a dry, smoky note, like the scent of wood burning in a fire after a long day in the mountains. 

Vetiver and patchouli offer a rich, earthy base, grounding the fragrance like the roots of trees that have taken hold in the soil of the volcanic mountain. Ambergris brings a marine, musky richness, like the distant scent of the ocean carried on the breeze from the far-off shores, while the sweet, warm notes of tonka bean bring a soft, comforting sweetness, like the gentle warmth of sunlight on the snow, a final touch of balance and harmony in this fragrance of nature’s contrasts.

In Misti, each note plays its part in evoking the image of a snow-covered volcanic mountain—vast, serene, and alive with the quiet energy of nature’s cycles. From the crispness of the snow-covered peaks to the warmth and complexity of the fragrant blooms hidden beneath the surface, this fragrance captures the essence of a landscape where the fresh, clean air and the rich, warm earth meet in perfect balance.

Bottles:

The Misti fragrance bottle, crafted by René Lalique in 1912, is a stunning example of Art Nouveau design and embodies the ethereal, delicate nature of the perfume it contained. Shaped like a classic inkwell, the bottle is made from colorless pressed, molded, and frosted satin glass. Its cylindrical section, which gently tapers into a curved disc, creates a sense of fluidity and motion. Molded into the glass is a graceful flight of seven twirling butterflies, each one carefully detailed, capturing the sense of movement as if the creatures were caught in midair, dancing in a soft breeze. These butterflies, with their translucent wings, seem to shimmer against the frosted surface, adding an element of magic to the bottle's design.

The stopper is equally refined—disk-shaped and frosted, it features a molded rosette of blossoming flowers, their delicate petals unfolding as if they were caught in the first breath of spring. The floral motif on the stopper complements the butterfly design, creating a harmonious connection between nature’s elements—both airy and floral. Standing only 2 inches tall, the bottle is compact yet striking, making it a perfect example of Lalique’s ability to create intricate, enchanting designs in small, precious forms.

The Misti bottle, referenced in F. Marcilhac’s comprehensive catalog, is not just an object of beauty but also a testament to Lalique's artistry and his influence on perfume packaging during the early 20th century. A 1921 advertisement described it as "a queer old Japanese bottle and box," perhaps referring to its exotic, almost otherworldly aesthetic, which echoed the Japonisme movement popular in France at the time. Lalique's use of soft, frosted glass and intricate designs lent the bottle an air of mystery and elegance, contributing to its allure.

The Pharmaceutical era - Volume 58 - Page 465, 1924:

"New odors called Misti, Velivole and Vivitz are announced. The Misti odor has an especially attractive package, the bottles being made by Lalique and having butterflies pressed into the glass, and the container is of dark blue ornamented with white."

In recognition of its exquisite design, the Lalique "Flacon de Luxe" for Misti won an award at the 1925 Art Deco Exposition in Paris, a prestigious event showcasing the height of creative expression in art and design. At the time, the bottle retailed for $15.00, a significant price for a perfume bottle in 1928. When adjusted for inflation, this would be equivalent to $273.55 in 2024 currency, underscoring the bottle's luxury status and the investment it represented in both artistry and fragrance. This price reflects not only the quality of the fragrance itself but also the high regard in which Lalique’s creations were held, with the bottle standing as a symbol of refined taste and sophistication.

In 1927, the bottles for Misti were redesigned, marking a significant shift from the earlier Lalique flacons to a new, more geometric and modern look. According to a newspaper advertisement from the time, a retailer that bought out the surplus showcased this updated bottle design. The new flacon was made by the prestigious Cristalleries de Baccarat, known for their superior craftsmanship and expertise in glassmaking. The bottle, design #548, was created using gilded crystal, blending Baccarat’s renowned quality with the clean lines and bold forms of the Art Deco style. The use of gilded crystal added a layer of luxury, with the shimmering gold accentuating the elegance and sophistication of the bottle.

The bottle’s shape was distinctly geometric, with sharp, clean angles and a more architectural form that reflected the growing influence of Art Deco design during the late 1920s. This sleek, modern aesthetic was a departure from the flowing organic curves and floral motifs that characterized earlier Art Nouveau influences, signaling a new era in both design and fashion. The gilding, which was likely applied to certain facets of the bottle, added an opulent, shimmering effect, catching the light and elevating the visual appeal of the perfume container.

This Baccarat flacon was not only used for Misti but also became associated with another Piver fragrance, Gao, which was launched in the same year, 1927. Gao, a perfume that carried its own allure, was housed in the same elegant bottle, further cementing the versatility and enduring appeal of Baccarat’s design. The rebranding of Misti into this new geometric bottle mirrored the changing tastes of the time, where luxury and modernity converged in both the fragrance and its packaging. The transition from Lalique’s delicate Art Nouveau creations to Baccarat’s bold Art Deco design was emblematic of the era’s move towards greater sophistication and streamlined elegance. The bottle's transformation was not just a change in design, but a reflection of the evolving cultural landscape of the 1920s, where fashion, art, and luxury all began to take on a more defined, geometric, and modern character.

Fate of the Fragrance:

Launched in 1912, Misti captured the essence of the early 20th century’s evolving tastes in both fragrance and design. The perfume, known for its delicate woodsy floral composition, quickly gained a loyal following and became a signature scent for many women of the time. However, by around 1937, Misti had been discontinued, disappearing from the market just as swiftly as it had appeared. Despite its relatively short lifespan, Misti remains a cherished gem among perfume aficionados, and the allure of its intricate design and unique scent continues to captivate collectors today.

One of the most significant reasons Misti endures in the hearts of collectors is the exquisite bottle designed by René Lalique, which was introduced alongside the fragrance in 1912. Lalique, a master of glassmaking, was renowned for his ability to blend art with functionality, and his Misti flacon is a prime example of his craftsmanship. The inkwell-shaped bottle, made of colorless pressed, molded, frosted satin glass, was adorned with a delicate motif of seven twirling butterflies, capturing a sense of movement and grace. This bottle, with its frosted glass stopper molded into a stylized flower rosette, is a stunning piece of Art Nouveau artistry, evoking a sense of timeless beauty. For collectors of René Lalique crystal, Misti’s flacon holds a special place, as it represents not just a fragrance container but a work of art in its own right.

The overall aesthetic of Misti, with its delicate fragrance and Lalique-designed bottle, also attracts those who appreciate the Art Nouveau style, which emphasized natural forms, flowing lines, and intricate decoration. As the years have passed, the Misti flacon has become a rare and sought-after collectible, making it a valuable find for those who are fortunate enough to stumble upon it. However, finding an original bottle, especially the Lalique flacon, is no easy task. These long-lost artifacts from the past are often elusive, making them highly prized in the world of perfume collecting. For those lucky enough to acquire a piece from the Misti line, whether it be the fragrance or the iconic Lalique bottle, the acquisition is a tangible connection to the elegance and beauty of a bygone era, and a treasure for collectors to cherish for years to come.