Launched in 1897 and introduced to the U.S. by 1904, Astris by LT Piver evokes a sense of timeless mystique, elegance, and sophistication. The name "Astris" (pronounced as "AS-tris"), originates from Latin, meaning "of the stars." This celestial reference connects the fragrance to themes of infinity, the cosmos, and the ethereal beauty of starlight. The name also carries a deeper literary and mythological resonance, alluding to the "Age of Astree"—a mythical golden era when peace and goodwill flourished on Earth. This concept finds its roots in Greek mythology, where Astris (or Asteria) was one of the Heliades, daughters of Helios, the sun god, and her story connects her to divinity, nature, and mysticism.
Astris also nods to Honoré d'Urfé's pastoral novel L'Astrée (1607–1627), which idealized a romanticized, harmonious golden age. These literary and mythological associations imbue the fragrance with a sense of nostalgia, evoking images of pastoral serenity, celestial wonder, and poetic romance. Women of the late 19th century, when the perfume was launched, would likely have been drawn to the elegance and sophistication the name represented. The connection to myth and literary culture added an intellectual allure, making the wearer feel part of an elevated, imaginative world.
The perfume itself, created by George Darzens and Pierre Armigeant, was classified as a fresh floral aldehyde. With its blend of rose, jasmine, violet, Queen of the Night flower (nicotiana), and lily of the valley, Astris captured the light, airy qualities of floral elegance. The addition of aldehydes provided a sparkling, cool, metallic edge—a modern touch that gave the scent a sense of effervescence and refinement. These notes rested on a soft oriental base, adding depth, warmth, and an exotic character.
In the context of the turn of the century, when many perfumes emphasized rich, heavy florals or musky oriental blends, Astris stood out. Its aldehydic freshness and metallic coolness anticipated a trend that would later dominate perfumery with iconic scents like Chanel No. 5. Astris was forward-thinking yet timeless, embodying both innovation and classic elegance.
The late 19th century, often referred to as the Belle Époque, was a period of cultural flourishing, technological innovation, and artistic experimentation. Fashions were transitioning from the opulent, corseted silhouettes of the Victorian era to lighter, more fluid designs. Women’s lives were beginning to change as the suffrage movement gained momentum and societal expectations shifted.
For a woman of this time, a fragrance like Astris offered more than just a scent—it was an emblem of modernity, independence, and sophistication. Advertisements from the 1920s described Astris as "the star of infinity" and a fragrance "for luxury and daring," emphasizing its appeal to women who embraced boldness and elegance.
A 1913 advertisement for LT Piver perfumes imbued Astris with an air of mystery and antiquity, claiming it was "a perfume of Ancient Egypt, distilled after a parchment formula unearthed near Thebes." This evocative description linked the fragrance to the grandeur and mysticism of the ancient world, tapping into the fascination with Egyptian culture that was reignited in the early 20th century by archaeological discoveries such as the excavation of tombs and ancient relics. The mention of Thebes, a city synonymous with opulence and history, conjured images of royal courts, sacred rituals, and the exotic allure of perfumes used by pharaohs and queens. By associating Astris with this storied past, LT Piver positioned the perfume and its accompanying sachet as a luxurious and timeless treasure, bridging ancient traditions with modern elegance.
Astris was described as having "just the faintest suggestion of autumn sadness in its sweetness," hinting at an evocative, melancholic quality beneath its shimmering façade. This poetic description suggests a complex fragrance, balancing the light, ethereal quality of aldehydes and florals with the grounding, emotive richness of its oriental base.
The aldehydes sparkle like the light of distant stars, cool and metallic, evoking an infinite night sky. Rose, jasmine, violet, and lily of the valley contribute a lush floral heart, capturing the delicate, dewy beauty of a starlit garden. Queen of the Night flower (nicotiana) adds an exotic, nocturnal allure, a whisper of mystery and seduction. The base, rich with ambergris, vanilla, tonka bean, benzoin, and patchouli, lends warmth, depth, and a sensual finish, as though grounding the celestial sparkle in earthy luxury.
Astris’s marketing positioned it as a fragrance for luxury, daring, and conquest. It was the perfect accompaniment to evening gowns, jewels, and the glamorous soirées of the time. Women who wore Astris were not just wearing a scent; they were embracing an identity—bold, sophisticated, and unafraid to captivate and conquer.
Ultimately, Astris by LT Piver was more than a perfume. It was a symbol of an age and an expression of timeless elegance, combining the mysticism of mythology, the refinement of literature, and the artistry of perfumery into a singular, unforgettable creation.
The Age of Astree:
The "Age of Astree" refers to L'Astree, a pastoral novel by Honoré d'Urfé, published between 1607 and 1627. Possibly the single most influential work of 17th century French literature, L'Astrée has been called the "novel of novels", partly for its immense length (six parts, forty stories, sixty books in 5399 pages) but also for the success it had throughout Europe: it was translated into a great number of languages and read at every royal court. Even today, this novel is regularly republished, both in full and in abridged edition, and even in comic book form. The first three parts were published in 1607, 1610 and 1619; after Honoré d'Urfé's death in 1625 the fourth was completed by Balthazar Baro, and a fifth and sixth were supplied in 1626 by Pierre Boitel, sieur de Gaubertin.The last two are often counted as one.
The plot is immensely complex, but the main thread of the storyline is the perfect love between a shepherd and shepherdess of fifth-century Forez, the heroine Astrée (named after Astræa) and her lover Céladon (who gave his name to the ceramic). The perfidies and political ambitions of the other characters, which result in many misadventures for the couple, occupy the greater proportion of the novel, which is frequently interrupted by digressions into stories that are strictly unrelated but which serve to flesh out the world in which they live. D'Urfé's descriptions of Forez are sufficiently detailed for many locations to be identified without ambiguity. Visitors to Boën can today follow the chemins de l'Astrée ("paths of Astrée") by visiting the Grand Préin the grounds of d'Urfé's old estate.
The most important editions are those of 1733, 1925 and 2006. A film version, Les Amours d'Astrée et de Céladon, by Éric Rohmer, was made in 2007. An opera by Gérard Pesson was staged in June 2009.
Perfumery & Essential Oil Record, 1911:
"L. T. Piver, of 10, Boulevard de Strasbourg, admit that they chiefly use fancy names, chosen specially to avoid any imitation ... Astris " is an allusion to that vague period known as " the Age of Astree," the golden age, when peace and goodwill reigned over earth."
Fragrance Composition:
So what does it smell like? Astris is classified as a fresh floral aldehyde perfume, with cool, metallic notes. It has a blend of rose, jasmine, violet, Queen of the Night flower (nicotiana), and lily of the valley spiked with aldehydes for a sparkling facet resting on a soft, oriental base. It was promoted as a perfume that was for luxury and daring women.
- Top notes: aldehydes, cinnamic alcohol, benzyl acetate, benzyl alcohol, jonquil, reseda, nicotiana, lily of the valley
- Middle notes: ionone, orange blossom, orris, jasmine, violet, rose, ylang ylang, geranium
- Base notes: vanilla, ambergris, sandalwood, angelica, civet, ambrette, coumarin, vanillin, musk, cedar, cloves
Bottles:
Flacon Empire:
Astris was not merely a fragrance; it was an indulgent experience, encompassing a wide range of luxury items including parfum, hair lotion, face powder, bath salts, bath powder, and sachet powder. Each product offered a way to incorporate the fragrance into everyday rituals, imbuing moments of self-care with an air of sophistication and refinement.
The parfum was the pinnacle of this collection, presented in a breathtaking clear Baccarat crystal flacon. This iconic bottle holds 2.5 oz of parfum and was cradled within an ornate gilded bronze mounting in the Empire style—a design aesthetic inspired by the grandeur of Napoleon’s era. The Empire style is characterized by neoclassical elegance, often featuring motifs such as laurel wreaths, classical columns, and bold, symmetrical forms that evoke power and opulence. The gilded bronze mounting of the Astris flacon epitomized these qualities, lending the perfume an aura of regality and timelessness.
At the center of the ormolu (gilded bronze) framework, a bronze plaque bore the engraved name of the perfume, highlighting its identity in a subtle but striking way. The craftsmanship of the mounting ensured that the crystal bottle remained securely embraced while adding a decorative element that elevated the presentation to the level of a collector’s piece.
The faceted crystal lapidary stopper atop the flacon was an exquisite finishing touch. Its precision-cut facets refracted light beautifully, creating a dazzling interplay of reflections that symbolized the sparkling quality of the fragrance within. This attention to detail reinforced the idea that Astris was as much a visual masterpiece as it was an olfactory one.
Adding to the overall allure, the bottle was housed in a deluxe wooden presentation box. The box was carefully designed, trimmed with bronze for a cohesive connection to the bottle’s ormolu accents. Inside, the box was lined with sumptuous orange velvet, a warm and vibrant contrast that echoed the golden tones of the gilding while providing a soft, protective setting for the crystal flacon. The box not only safeguarded the perfume but also enhanced its status as a luxurious gift or personal treasure.
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The hair lotion and 1 oz sachet powder bottles in the Astris collection were adorned with exquisite paper labels designed to echo the luxurious bronze mounting featured on the parfum bottle. These labels showcased intricate graphics that emulated the gilded ormolu framework, creating a sense of unity across the product line and reinforcing the brand's commitment to elegance and sophistication.
The labels produced with fine chromolithography, depicted ornate, neoclassical designs reminiscent of the Empire style. They framed the product name in a central cartouche, mimicking the engraved bronze plaque found on the parfum bottle. The effect was both visually striking and harmonious, ensuring that even the simpler packaging items upheld the opulent aesthetic that defined the Astris collection.
The use of these richly detailed labels on the hair lotion and sachet powder allowed LT Piver to maintain a cohesive identity across the line while offering a more accessible alternative to the elaborate crystal and bronze presentation of the parfum. This approach ensured that every product in the Astris range, regardless of its price point, carried a sense of luxury and artistry that appealed to discerning consumers of the era.
The face powder box for Astris was a beautifully crafted accessory that mirrored the opulence of the perfume’s presentation. Designed in a square shape, the hinged box featured the same wood and bronze trim that characterized the deluxe presentation of the flacon. This harmonious design ensured that all elements of the Astris collection conveyed a cohesive aesthetic, underscoring the attention to detail and refinement synonymous with LT Piver’s luxury offerings.
The bronze trim, likely executed in the ormolu style, added a touch of gilded elegance, accentuating the richness of the polished wood. The interplay between the warm tones of the bronze and the smooth, dark surface of the wood created a striking visual contrast, further elevating the face powder box beyond a mere functional item to a statement of luxury.
This thoughtfully designed box not only protected its contents but also served as a decorative piece worthy of display on a vanity. Its elegant craftsmanship echoed the neoclassical grandeur of the Empire style, ensuring that even the most everyday items in the Astris collection embodied the sophistication and beauty of the golden age of perfumery.
Astris’s packaging was a masterful blend of artistry, functionality, and symbolism. The Empire-style ormolu, the radiant crystal stopper, and the deluxe presentation box all worked together to create a sense of splendor and exclusivity. This exquisite presentation was a fitting tribute to the celestial inspiration behind Astris, making it a cherished addition to any vanity and a true reflection of the golden age of perfumery.
Flacon Etoile:
In 1927, LT Piver introduced a stunning new bottle for Astris, embodying the spirit of the modern age. This edition, known as the "Flacon de Luxe," was a masterful example of Art Deco design. Crafted from salmon pink Baccarat crystal, the bottle featured a distinctive hexagonal shape, a nod to the geometric precision that defined the era’s aesthetic. Adorning its front was a star-shaped silver foil paper label, perfectly capturing the celestial theme of Astris while emphasizing its modernity and sophistication.
This luxurious flacon was housed in a rose-colored pink suede presentation box, further elevating its allure. The box was adorned with a silver star at its center, echoing the motif of the bottle’s label and reinforcing the perfume’s identity as the "star of infinity." The meticulous attention to detail in both the bottle and its packaging highlighted LT Piver’s dedication to creating an exceptional sensory and visual experience for their customers.
Retailing at $20 in 1927, the flacon was a high-end offering, equivalent to $360.56 in 2024 when adjusted for inflation. This price point positioned the Flacon de Luxe as a true luxury item, appealing to women who sought exclusivity and refinement. The American Perfumer & Essential Oil Review praised its presentation, noting its prominent display at Maquet, 12 rue de la Paix. The box, covered with rosy-colored paper and bearing a silver star, was described as a testament to the engraver's artistic excellence, contributing to its reputation as a jewel of perfumery packaging.
The star-shaped flacon and its elegant presentation captured the imagination of the late 1920s, a time when Art Deco modernism flourished in fashion, design, and culture. However, this edition was only available until 1934, making it a sought-after collector’s piece today, cherished for its historical significance and aesthetic beauty.
"Piver Announces MODERN PERFUMES LT Piver — who has made more French perfume than anyone else in the world — announces that he is first among perfumers to join the ranks of the modernists... Astris, the Star of infinity- - for the woman who adores luxury and who wants to know the power perfumes have . . . Astris Flacon de Luxe $20."
Fate of the Fragrance:
Discontinued, date unknown. Astris was still being sold in 1934.
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