Thursday, November 27, 2014

Astris by LT Piver c1904

Astris by LT Piver was launched in 1904. Created by George Darzens and Pierre Armigeant. The name is an allusion to that vague period known as the "Age of Astree," the golden age, when peace and goodwill reigned on earth.




It was promoted as a perfume that was for luxury and daring women. Astris was available as parfum, face powder, bath salts, bath powder and sachet.


In Greek mythology, Astris (or Asteria) was one of the Heliades, daughters of Helios, either by the Oceanid Clymene or the Oceanid Ceto. She married the river god Hydaspes (the modern Jhelum River) and became mother of Deriades, king in India.




Perfumery & Essential Oil Record, 1911:
"L. T. Piver, of 10, Boulevard de Strasbourg, admit that they chiefly use fancy names, chosen specially to avoid any imitation ... Astris " is an allusion to that vague period known as " the Age of Astree," the golden age, when peace and goodwill reigned over earth."


The Age of Astree:

The "Age of Astree" refers to L'Astree, a pastoral novel by Honoré d'Urfé, published between 1607 and 1627.

Possibly the single most influential work of 17th century French literature, L'Astrée has been called the "novel of novels", partly for its immense length (six parts, forty stories, sixty books in 5399 pages) but also for the success it had throughout Europe: it was translated into a great number of languages and read at every royal court. Even today, this novel is regularly republished, both in full and in abridged edition, and even in comic book form. The first three parts were published in 1607, 1610 and 1619; after Honoré d'Urfé's death in 1625 the fourth was completed by Balthazar Baro, and a fifth and sixth were supplied in 1626 by Pierre Boitel, sieur de Gaubertin.The last two are often counted as one.

The plot is immensely complex, but the main thread of the storyline is the perfect love between a shepherd and shepherdess of fifth-century Forez, the heroine Astrée (named after Astræa) and her lover Céladon (who gave his name to the ceramic). The perfidies and political ambitions of the other characters, which result in many misadventures for the couple, occupy the greater proportion of the novel, which is frequently interrupted by digressions into stories that are strictly unrelated but which serve to flesh out the world in which they live. D'Urfé's descriptions of Forez are sufficiently detailed for many locations to be identified without ambiguity. Visitors to Boën can today follow the chemins de l'Astrée ("paths of Astrée") by visiting the Grand Préin the grounds of d'Urfé's old estate.

The most important editions are those of 1733, 1925 and 2006. A film version, Les Amours d'Astrée et de Céladon, by Éric Rohmer, was made in 2007. An opera by Gérard Pesson was staged in June 2009.

Fragrance Composition:


So what does it smell like? Astris is a fresh floral aldehyde perfume, with cool, metallic notes.  It has a blend of rose, jasmine, violet, Queen of the Night flower(nicotiana), and lily of the valley spiked with aldehydes for a sparkling facet resting on a soft, oriental base. Described as having "just the faintest suggestion of autumn sadness in its sweetness" in a 1927 newspaper advertisement.
  • Top notes: aldehydes, nicotiana, lily of the valley
  • Middle notes: jasmine, rose, violet, ylang ylang
  • Base notes: vanilla, amber, musk, sandalwood


Bottles:


The perfume was originally presented in a clear Baccarat crystal flacon, embraced by a bronze mounting. The name of the perfume was engraved on the bronze plaque in the center of the ornate framework. The bottle featured a crystal lapidary stopper. The bottle stands about 4.5" tall and is housed in a deluxe wooden presentation box trimmed with bronze.






In 1927, a new bottle was produced for Astris. A salmon pink Baccarat crystal star shaped bottle with silver star shaped label, a thoroughly perfect specimen of Art Deco modernism. This luxury edition known as the Flacon de Luxe retailed for $20 in 1927 and held about 2.5 oz. The star flacon was discontinued in 1934.


Vanity Fair, 1927:
"Piver Announces MODERN PERFUMES LT Piver — who has made more French perfume than anyone else in the world — announces that he is first among perfumers to join the ranks of the modernists... Astris, the Star of infinity- - for the woman who adores luxury and who wants to know the power perfumes have . . . Astris  Flacon de Luxe $20."






Fate of the Fragrance:


Discontinued, date unknown. Astris was still being sold in 1934.

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