Azurea by LT Piver c1897

Azurea, launched by LT Piver in 1897, carries a name that evokes a sense of ethereal beauty and refined elegance. The term "Azurea" derives from the word "azure," which refers to a bright, clear blue, often associated with the color of the sky or heaven. Pronounced "ah-zoo-ray-ah", the name conjures images of a vast, limitless sky, suggesting that the fragrance is as light and airy as the ether itself. The choice of such a name reflects the delicate, almost heavenly quality that the creators intended for this perfume, a symbol of purity and grace.

The late 19th century, during which Azurea was launched, was a time of great transition. The Belle Époque era (1871-1914) was in full bloom, characterized by optimism, technological innovation, and a flourishing of the arts. The social climate was marked by elegance and opulence, and women of the time embraced styles that emphasized refinement, grace, and femininity. The Belle Époque saw a preference for lighter, floral scents, which aligned well with the perfume’s delicate nature. Women of this period, who were drawn to the lightness and sophistication of the era, would have easily related to a fragrance called Azurea, as it reflected both the romantic idealism of the time and their own aspirations for beauty and elegance.

The word Azurea, in the context of scent, likely suggests a fresh, airy fragrance with the essence of spring in full bloom, embodying the lightness and serenity of an azure sky. As a floral fragrance based on the scent of clematis, Azurea was sweet, fresh, and light, with a hint of spice that added complexity. Compared to other perfumes on the market in the late 19th century, it was unique in its delicate and refined composition, setting it apart from the heavier, more opulent fragrances that were also popular at the time. In a period when florals were favored but often paired with deep, rich notes, Azurea offered a refreshing contrast.

A 1902 advertisement for Azurea further emphasizes its ethereal quality, describing it as nearly eclipsing the sweetness of spring blossoms, making it a favorite among the wealthy and luxurious. The perfume was presented as the pinnacle of French perfumery, a symbol of the refined tastes of the time. By positioning Azurea in this way, LT Piver not only highlighted its delicate scent but also aligned it with the social elite, reinforcing its status as a perfume for those who appreciated the finest things in life.

 

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a floral fragrance for women. A haunting blend of rose and jasmine, described as sweet, light, fresh, with a bit of spice.

• Top notes: Bouvardia, orange, cassie, bergamot, anisic aldehyde, neroli bigarade, benzyl acetate, linalyl acetate
• Middle notes: hyacinth, hawthorn, jonquil, jasmine, tuberose, heliotropin, Bulgarian rose, clove, narcissus, iris
• Base notes: vanilla, vanillin, civet, musk, benzoin, ambrette, ambergris, styrax, vetiver, terpineol, sandalwood, coumarin

 

Scent Profile:

Azurea opens like a dewy morning garden. The soft, honeyed sweetness of bouvardia blossoms gently, mingling with the lively zest of orange and bergamot. Cassie adds its unique green floralcy, tinged with a delicate powdery warmth. Anisic aldehyde introduces a faintly licorice-like spiciness, airy and fresh, which complements the shimmering brightness of neroli bigarade. Benzyl acetate and linalyl acetate weave through this bouquet, lending fruity-floral nuances and a smooth, velvety freshness that evokes an ethereal and joyful energy.

The fragrance blooms into a lush floral heart, a symphony of natural elegance. The verdant sweetness of hyacinth intertwines with hawthorn’s creamy, slightly almond-like aroma. Jonquil and narcissus bring a narcotic, heady intensity, their scents rich and opulent. Jasmine unfurls with its indolic depth, while tuberose adds a creamy, tropical lushness. 

Heliotropin provides a soft almond and vanilla powderiness, gently tempering the intensity of the florals. Bulgarian rose offers its velvety, honeyed richness, paired with the subtle spice of clove. Iris lends a cool, earthy sophistication, grounding the florals with its powdery elegance. Together, this bouquet feels like the pinnacle of springtime abundance—vivid, alive, and deeply feminine.

As the florals settle, the base reveals a warm, sensual foundation. Vanilla and vanillin wrap the fragrance in a creamy, gourmand sweetness, while civet and musk add a soft, animalic depth that feels both intimate and inviting. Benzoin and ambergris introduce a resinous warmth, glowing like golden amber. 

Ambrette’s musky, nutty quality adds texture, and styrax contributes a balsamic richness with subtle smoky undertones. Vetiver’s grassy, earthy dryness balances the sweetness, while terpineol’s faintly herbal freshness lingers in the background. Sandalwood’s creamy, sacred warmth intertwines with coumarin’s hay-like sweetness, rounding out the base with a sense of comforting sophistication.

Azurea is a luminous fragrance that captures the essence of light and elegance. Its sweet florals, balanced by fresh and spicy nuances, transition into a warm, velvety base that lingers like a soft, golden glow, embodying timeless femininity.

 

Bottles:

 

Azurea Parfum (Essence) was presented in a clear, simple glass bottle, the transparency allowing the fragrance to be appreciated in its purest form. The understated elegance of the bottle was complemented by a stunning, colorful chromolithograph paper label. This label was decorated with Art Nouveau-style graphics, featuring delicate blue clematis blossoms. The design, evocative of the floral and flowing motifs popular during the late 19th and early 20th centuries, immediately called to mind the distinctive style of Alphonse Mucha, one of the most renowned artists associated with the Art Nouveau movement. His influence on the design of Azurea’s packaging was clear. Mucha’s work, characterized by soft flowing lines, natural forms, and harmonious compositions, celebrated beauty and femininity, making his style an ideal choice for luxury items like perfume.

Art Nouveau, a movement that emerged in the late 19th century, sought to break away from the rigid forms of the past, emphasizing organic shapes, sinuous curves, and intricate detail inspired by nature. Mucha, often regarded as the defining figure of this movement, was famous for his poster art, which frequently featured graceful, ethereal women surrounded by flowers, foliage, and other natural elements. His influence permeated not only fine art but also graphic design, interior design, and, importantly, commercial packaging. The use of Art Nouveau elements in perfume packaging, such as Azurea's label, was a way of conveying a sense of luxury, natural beauty, and elegance, appealing directly to the desires of women in the early 20th century.

The clematis blossoms featured on Azurea's packaging were not just decorative but also symbolic. In the language of flowers, clematis represents mental beauty, ingenuity, and creativity, making it a fitting motif for a perfume that sought to evoke sophistication and intellectual allure. The delicate yet vibrant blue clematis captured the essence of Azurea—feminine, refined, and intelligent. These blossoms also have associations with love and passion, which further deepened their connection to the fragrance's intended message. By incorporating clematis into the design, LT Piver not only embraced the beauty of nature but also invited the wearer of Azurea to experience the perfume as an expression of creativity and allure.

The choice of clematis was both aesthetic and symbolic. It heightened the fragrance’s connection to the natural world and to the refined sensibilities of the women who would wear it. These Art Nouveau-inspired details reflected a time when the visual and sensual experiences of perfume were inseparable. In packaging and design, much as in the scent itself, Azurea sought to embody elegance, grace, and a touch of the avant-garde, aligning the product with the artistic and cultural ideals of the period.

The "Poudre A Sachets" bottle held a scented sachet powder. It had the pretty paper label and stood 4" tall. The clear glass bottle has a cork lined clear glass stopper.

Gorgeous graphics on the fancy talcum powder tin known as the "Poudre de Talc". The shaker top is fitted with a slide closure, it has a patent date of Aug. 2, 1921. On the bottom of the tin, there is a patent date of January 11, 1921. Approximate measurements 4.25" tall x 3.5" widest part of the tin. This 3.5 oz tin is marked "3 1/2 oz Net Contents Created by L.T. Piver Paris, Made in The U.S.A. by Their Successors L.T. Piver Inc. NY"

The face powder box "Poudre Azurea" is covered with the repeated Art Nouveau graphics and measures 4" long x 3 1/4" wide x 1 3/4" tall. The box holds 110 grams of face powder.

Another pretty talcum powder canister featured the Azurea graphics and stood 4.75" tall.

 

I don't have a photo of it yet, but the Azurea Eau de Cologne was introduced in 1937 in a fluted five ounce bottle with a molded Bakelite cap.

Fate of the Fragrance:

Launched in 1897, the fragrance quickly became a symbol of elegance and luxury. Its popularity endured for decades, as it continued to captivate the hearts of perfume enthusiasts. Despite being discontinued at an unknown time, its presence lingered in the market, with reports showing that it was still being sold as late as 1966. This longevity speaks to the timeless appeal of the fragrance, which managed to remain relevant and desirable for nearly 70 years. The perfume's enduring success and continued availability for so long after its initial release reflect its deep connection with its audience and the lasting impact it had in the world of perfumery.