Launched in 1923, Vallée des Rois by LT Piver drew its name from one of the most historically rich and intriguing places on earth: the Valley of the Kings in Egypt. The name, pronounced "Val-lay deh Rwah", evokes the grandeur and mystique of this ancient burial ground where pharaohs, including the famous King Tutankhamun, were laid to rest. The Valley of the Kings is known for its tombs, painted walls, and treasures, and the perfume’s name conjures up visions of royal splendor, the allure of Egyptology, and the timeless mysticism of the ancient world. It is particularly noteworthy that the fragrance debuted just a year after the sensational discovery of King Tut’s tomb by the British archaeologist Howard Carter, which captivated the world’s imagination and brought Egypt’s ancient splendor into the modern consciousness.
The period during which Vallée des Rois was launched was one of great cultural fascination with the exotic, particularly Egypt and the Middle East, as the world reacted to the discovery of ancient tombs and treasures. This was a time when the Roaring Twenties were in full swing, with women’s fashion evolving into more liberated silhouettes, short bobbed hairstyles, and the iconic flapper style. Society was enthralled by the thrill of the unknown and the allure of luxury. Perfumes, during this period, often mirrored this sense of exoticism and sophistication, offering a sensory escape to distant lands. Women of the time, particularly those who embraced the modern flapper lifestyle, would likely have been drawn to Vallée des Rois as a fragrance that embodied the mystery, luxury, and history of ancient Egypt while also signaling a connection to the opulence of the 1920s.
Vallée des Rois, classified as a spicy oriental fragrance for women, would have been interpreted as a fragrance rich in warmth, opulence, and sensuality, with notes of spices, resins, and perhaps a hint of incense or woods, invoking the atmosphere of an ancient, sacred tomb. Given the popularity of oriental and spicy notes during this period, with perfumes like Shalimar by Guerlain leading the way, Vallée des Rois was in keeping with the trends of the time but stood out by emphasizing the exotic allure of Egypt, offering an even deeper connection to the cultural fascination with the East. This connection to the world of the pharaohs would have provided an added layer of mystique and romance, inviting the wearer to imagine themselves draped in the splendor of ancient royalty.
Fragrance Composition:
So what does it smell like? It is classified as a spicy oriental fragrance for women.
- Top notes: bergamot, lemon, coriander, clove, bitter orange blossom
- Middle notes: rose, jasmine, orris, ylang ylang, carnation, cinnamon, nutmeg
- Base notes: opoponax, labdanum, ambergris, sandalwood, myrrh, frankincense, vanilla, benzoin, patchouli, civet, olibanum
Scent Profile:
As you lift the bottle of Vallée des Rois to your nose, the first breath is a burst of fresh citrus. The bergamot offers a lively and slightly tart zest, as if you've just peeled the ripest fruit under the warm sun. The lemon sharpens this, its crisp acidity cutting through with a clean, effervescent quality, evoking the bright, sunlit landscapes of ancient Egypt.
A delicate sweetness unfolds as the bitter orange blossom introduces a subtle floral note, both refreshing and slightly green, as if a breeze stirred through an orchard in full bloom. And then there is the soft, spiced hint of coriander, which adds a touch of warmth and earthiness, blending smoothly with the citrus.
As the fragrance begins to evolve, a rich, sensual heart emerges. The rose blooms with elegance, its velvety petals unfurling, both sweet and deep, like an offering to royalty. The jasmine complements it, its intoxicatingly heady presence filling the air, evoking images of midnight gardens. Ylang ylang adds a layer of lush sweetness, slightly creamy and exotic, transporting you to a place where beauty and mystery intertwine.
There’s a subtle floral powderiness that weaves through, thanks to orris, evoking soft, golden memories of old perfumes with an almost nostalgic charm. Then the carnation introduces a spicy, clove-like warmth, and cinnamon and nutmeg join the symphony with their rich, spicy heat, adding a dash of complexity that wraps the wearer in a sense of opulence and grandeur.
The base of Vallée des Rois grounds the fragrance with its deep, resinous notes. Opoponax unfurls like a dark, rich balsam, slightly sweet yet full of earthy warmth, while labdanum provides an aromatic, leathery depth, reminiscent of ancient treasures encased in stone tombs. Ambergris, warm and animalic, adds a sophisticated richness, hinting at the distant, romantic allure of the ancient world. The smoky and sacred presence of myrrh swirls with frankincense, together creating an aura of mysticism, as if incense were wafting from an Egyptian temple.
The creamy vanilla softens the resinous notes, giving a sweet, comforting depth to the fragrance. Benzoin enriches this warmth with its balsamic, vanilla-like sweetness, while patchouli adds an earthy, slightly musky richness that connects the fragrance to the earth. The animalic, sensual touch of civet creates an unforgettable depth, adding a primal layer to the perfume, and olibanum, with its sacred, incense-like quality, ties everything together, leaving a trail that is both regal and elusive.
In total, Vallée des Rois is an olfactory journey through ancient Egypt—opulent, mystical, and deeply sensual. The interplay of bright citrus, rich florals, and deep, resinous base notes captures the allure of a civilization known for its grandeur and its reverence for the divine, inviting the wearer to experience the treasures of the past in the most fragrant of ways.
Bottle:
The obelisk, a towering stone monument with a four-sided structure tapering to a point, holds profound symbolism in ancient Egyptian culture. It was seen as a representation of the sun god Ra, symbolizing divine light, power, and immortality. The Egyptians believed that the obelisk's shape mirrored the sun’s rays, directing them toward the heavens and the gods. These monumental structures, often erected in pairs at the entrances of temples, were not only a testament to architectural mastery but also served as symbols of eternal life, a connection between the earth and the gods above.
In choosing the shape of an obelisk for the flacon of Vallée des Rois, LT Piver tapped into this deep and powerful symbolism. The obelisk is inherently regal and enduring, a fitting representation for a fragrance that evokes the grandeur and mystique of ancient Egypt. The choice of the obelisk shape emphasizes the fragrance’s connection to the ancient world, imbuing the perfume with a sense of timeless elegance and strength. The tall, slender form of the flacon mirrors the obelisk’s impressive stature, while its tapering design suggests the narrowing of the perfume’s focus, drawing the wearer in with a concentrated burst of scent.
The stopper, designed to resemble the pyramidion at the tip of the obelisk, adds a final touch of ceremonial grandeur. In ancient Egypt, the pyramidion was often covered in gold or electrum and placed atop an obelisk, symbolizing the pinnacle of divine reach and celestial alignment. By incorporating this feature into the perfume bottle, LT Piver aligned the fragrance with notions of luxury, divine power, and immortality, reinforcing the idea that Vallée des Rois was a perfume worthy of royalty. The obelisk, both as a monument and a flacon design, serves as an enduring tribute to the splendor and mystery of Egypt, a timeless beacon of ancient grandeur.
Fate of the Fragrance:
Launched in 1923, Vallée des Rois by LT Piver quickly captured the imagination of the fragrance world, aligning itself with the fascination for all things Egypt that had gripped society in the wake of the discovery of King Tutankhamun's tomb. This perfume, steeped in ancient mystique, was presented in an elegant Baccarat crystal obelisk-shaped bottle, whose striking design made it a luxurious collector's item. The perfume line also included a beautifully crafted glass powder box, a fitting complement to the perfume's grandeur. However, the Vallée des Rois collection was discontinued sometime after its initial release, though records suggest it was still being sold as late as 1931.
Despite its relatively short commercial lifespan, the Vallée des Rois line has become incredibly difficult to find. The Baccarat crystal obelisk bottles are especially rare, their luxurious form and the symbolism of ancient Egypt still enticing collectors and perfume enthusiasts. These bottles are not only a testament to the artistry of LT Piver but also represent a particular moment in fragrance history when perfumes were presented as elaborate, highly decorative objects that transcended the functional. The glass powder box, likewise, is highly coveted, often sought after by collectors of both perfume and decorative glass.
Today, the Vallée des Rois perfume and its accompanying items remain elusive treasures, with surviving examples fetching high prices on the secondary market. Their rarity adds to their allure, making any piece from this line a rare find for collectors of fine perfumery and antique glass. The enduring appeal of Vallée des Rois is a testament to the timeless elegance and mystery it evokes—a fragrance that once whispered of ancient Egypt's secrets, now coveted as an artifact of its own.
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