Mascarade by LT Piver was launched in 1928, during an era characterized by glamour, boldness, and significant cultural shifts. The choice of the name "Mascarade" (pronounced mahs-kah-RAHD in French) was likely intentional, evoking the mystery, elegance, and allure of a masquerade ball. The word "mascarade" originates from French, meaning "masquerade" or "a festive gathering where participants wear masks and costumes." It suggests images of opulence, intrigue, and revelry, inviting the wearer to step into a world of enchantment and mystery.
The late 1920s marked the culmination of the Roaring Twenties, a decade defined by artistic innovation, social liberation, and a departure from traditional norms. This was the age of Art Deco, a design movement that celebrated modernity and luxury with bold geometric patterns, rich colors, and opulent materials. Fashion was equally daring—women embraced shorter hemlines, beaded dresses, cloche hats, and bobbed hairstyles. The period was also known for its fascination with exoticism, fueled by global exploration and the popularity of Orientalist art and design.
In this vibrant context, the name Mascarade would have resonated deeply with women seeking to embody the spirit of sophistication and intrigue. A perfume called Mascarade would suggest a transformation, much like the role of a mask at a masquerade, allowing its wearer to assume a new identity—one of allure and mystery.
The fragrance itself, described as peppery and likely heavy, aligns with the tastes of the time. Oriental, spicy, and chypre fragrances were highly sought after, particularly for brunettes and women with darker complexions, who were often advised to wear bold, sensual scents. This guidance was rooted in the perception that such fragrances complemented their coloring and personality, contrasting with the lighter floral and aldehydic scents typically recommended for blondes and fair-complected women.
In the broader fragrance landscape of the 1920s, Mascarade would have stood out for its bold character, but it was not entirely unique in its appeal. Many perfumes of the time, such as Guerlain's Shalimar (1925) and Coty's Emeraude (1921), explored exotic, rich oriental compositions. However, Mascarade distinguished itself through its theatrical branding and the emotional imagery it evoked—a direct invitation to revel in the drama and allure of the masquerade.
For the women of the time, Mascarade would have been more than a fragrance; it would have been an accessory to the daring fashions and liberated attitudes of the Jazz Age. It encapsulated the era’s fascination with transformation, sensuality, and the artistry of self-expression—qualities that remain timeless and captivating even today.
Fragrance Composition:
So what does it smell like? It was classified as a spicy oriental floral fragrance for women.
- Top notes: black pepper, cinnamon, bergamot, coriander, cardamom
- Middle notes: clove, jasmine, rose, ylang ylang, orange blossom
- Base notes: ambergris, patchouli, oakmoss, vanilla, labdanum, civet, musk, sandalwood, benzoin
Reste Jeune, 1936:
"Piver created Mascarade as a peppery yet fresh fragrance designed to harmonize beautifully with the natural scent of the skin. It is a "young" and modern perfume, perfectly suited to contemporary tastes."
Scent Profile:
Mascarade begins with a bold, exhilarating burst of spice and citrus that awakens the senses. The black pepper is sharp and piquant, tingling the nose with a dry, slightly woody heat. It is immediately softened by the warmth of cinnamon, which lends a sweet, aromatic richness that feels both comforting and exotic.
The brightness of bergamot sparkles in contrast, adding a crisp, juicy freshness with a faintly bitter edge, reminiscent of freshly peeled citrus zest. Coriander follows with its green, nutty aroma, slightly spicy but rounded, like a breath of warm earth. Cardamom weaves through, its complexity revealing a cool, camphoraceous quality that transitions into a soft, sweet spice, creating an alluring, almost culinary intrigue.
As the fragrance develops, the middle notes emerge in a lush floral symphony, each element unfolding like petals on a breeze. Clove deepens the spicy undertones, warm and slightly sweet, with a hint of smoke that lingers in the background. The jasmine is intoxicating, opulent, and creamy, a rich white floral with an animalic hint that feels both sensual and regal.
Rose offers a romantic, velvety softness, balancing the richness with a sweet and slightly green freshness. The tropical creaminess of ylang-ylang adds a sunny, narcotic warmth, while orange blossom contributes a bright, honeyed sweetness with a faintly soapy purity that lightens the bouquet. Together, these florals create an intricate, feminine heart that feels timeless and deeply expressive.
As the fragrance settles, the base notes reveal their sumptuous depth, anchoring the perfume with a warm, sensual embrace. Ambergris provides a salty, marine-like quality, subtly animalic and mysterious, while patchouli contributes an earthy richness, dark and woody with a hint of chocolate. Oakmoss brings a green, forest-like dampness, grounding the composition with a shadowy elegance.
Vanilla and benzoin layer on a balsamic sweetness, smooth and creamy, with a resinous warmth that lingers on the skin. Labdanum adds a smoky, leathery nuance, while civet and musk infuse the blend with a soft, animalic sensuality that feels intimate and provocative. The smooth, milky sandalwood harmonizes the base, while the lingering trail of resinous sweetness and spicy warmth creates an intoxicating finish that is both sophisticated and irresistibly seductive.
Mascarade unfolds like a journey—spicy and bright at the start, blooming into a lush floral heart, and finally settling into a rich, warm base. It evokes images of silk and shadow, opulent evenings, and whispered secrets, embodying the allure and mystery of a timeless, spicy oriental floral.
Bottle:
The opaque red glass bottle from 1928 is a stunning example of early 20th-century design, with its bold use of color and intricate craftsmanship. This bottle features an arched silhouette with gracefully sloping shoulders, emphasizing elegance and fluidity. The surface is molded with swirling shapes that evoke a sense of motion and artistry, while its matching stopper, a button-shaped piece, is adorned with a repeating design that complements the bottle's aesthetic. The base of the bottle is acid-stamped with "France," affirming its origins in the sophisticated world of French perfumery.
Some examples of this bottle were further enhanced with gold enamel trim, including delicate gilding on the stopper, elevating its luxurious appeal. At the time of its release, the bottle was offered in two sizes: the De Luxe at 3.75" tall and 2" tall. The smaller size retailed for $2.45, and the larger, De Luxe size was priced at $25. Adjusted for inflation, these prices would be approximately $44.65 and $455.91 in 2024, reflecting the bottle's premium status during its production era.
In 1936, this iconic red glass bottle was discontinued in favor of a simpler and more cost-effective design: the Harlequin bottle. This new flacon featured a rectangular cubical shape with molded diamond patterns and showcased a label bearing illustrations of Greek theater masks, aligning with a more theatrical theme. The updated graphics adorned a range of products, including extrait (parfum), lotion, face powder, and face cream. While the Harlequin bottle offered a new aesthetic direction, the original opaque red glass bottle remains a cherished piece of perfumery history, celebrated for its vibrant beauty and rich artistry.
The original Mascarade perfume bottle from the 1920s, is a captivating example of Art Deco design and luxury packaging, but the new look from 1936, is quite different in several ways. This fragrance was newly presented in an elegant square box made of cardboard, which was covered in colorful, polychrome-printed paper. The exterior of the box was adorned with illustrations of theatrical masks, reflecting the playful and mysterious theme of the perfume. While the box may now show signs of wear, its charm and artistic appeal remain evident.
The perfume bottle itself was crafted from colorless, pressed-molded glass in the iconic "Harlequin" design. The bottle has a rectangular, cubical shape reminiscent of a milestone marker, with a surface adorned by molded diamond-shaped patterns. A vivid polychrome label featuring a decorative illustration was affixed to one face of the bottle, adding to its visual allure. The stopper, also made of clear glass, was uniquely shaped like a two-pointed bicorne, lending an additional touch of theatrical sophistication to the overall presentation.
Standing at 9.5 cm tall, the Mascarade perfume bottle is a beautiful testament to the elegance and creativity of mid-20th-century perfumery design, encapsulating the spirit of the era in both fragrance and presentation.
Fate of the Fragrance:
Mascarade by LT Piver, launched in 1928, was a perfume that captured the spirit and sophistication of its time. Its bold and peppery fragrance, combined with an elegant presentation, positioned it as a hallmark of modern femininity in the late 1920s and 1930s. However, the perfume's journey came to an end, though the exact date of its discontinuation remains unclear.
The last known advertisements for Mascarade products date to 1948, suggesting that the perfume lingered on the market for two decades. Its eventual disappearance may have been influenced by the upheavals of World War II. The war caused widespread shortages of raw materials, disrupted production capabilities, and shifted consumer priorities. Many luxury goods, including perfumes, were either scaled back or discontinued during this period. For Mascarade, this could have meant the end of its production, as post-war markets leaned towards newer innovations and trends, leaving some pre-war classics behind.
Despite its discontinuation, Mascarade remains a symbol of its era, reflecting the artistry and elegance of 1920s and 1930s perfumery. Its absence today adds a layer of mystique, making it a cherished memory among vintage fragrance enthusiasts and a fascinating piece of LT Piver’s illustrious history.
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