Astris by LT Piver c1897

Launched in 1897 and introduced to the U.S. by 1904, Astris by LT Piver evokes a sense of timeless mystique, elegance, and sophistication. The name "Astris" (pronounced as "AS-tris"), originates from Latin, meaning "of the stars." This celestial reference connects the fragrance to themes of infinity, the cosmos, and the ethereal beauty of starlight. The name also carries a deeper literary and mythological resonance, alluding to the "Age of Astree"—a mythical golden era when peace and goodwill flourished on Earth. This concept finds its roots in Greek mythology, where Astris (or Asteria) was one of the Heliades, daughters of Helios, the sun god, and her story connects her to divinity, nature, and mysticism.

Astris also nods to Honoré d'Urfé's pastoral novel L'Astrée (1607–1627), which idealized a romanticized, harmonious golden age. These literary and mythological associations imbue the fragrance with a sense of nostalgia, evoking images of pastoral serenity, celestial wonder, and poetic romance. Women of the late 19th century, when the perfume was launched, would likely have been drawn to the elegance and sophistication the name represented. The connection to myth and literary culture added an intellectual allure, making the wearer feel part of an elevated, imaginative world.

The perfume itself, created by George Darzens and Pierre Armigeant, was classified as a fresh floral aldehyde. With its blend of rose, jasmine, violet, Queen of the Night flower (nicotiana), and lily of the valley, Astris captured the light, airy qualities of floral elegance. The addition of aldehydes provided a sparkling, cool, metallic edge—a modern touch that gave the scent a sense of effervescence and refinement. These notes rested on a soft oriental base, adding depth, warmth, and an exotic character.

In the context of the turn of the century, when many perfumes emphasized rich, heavy florals or musky oriental blends, Astris stood out. Its aldehydic freshness and metallic coolness anticipated a trend that would later dominate perfumery with iconic scents like Chanel No. 5. Astris was forward-thinking yet timeless, embodying both innovation and classic elegance.

Misti by LT Piver c1912

Misti by L.T. Piver, launched in 1912 in France and arriving in the United States by 1915, is a fragrance that elegantly embodies its name and time. The name Misti is evocative and layered with meaning. Derived from the Quechua or Spanish language, Misti means "mixed," "mestizo," or "white," often referring to something with a snow-like quality or the snow cover on the dormant volcanic mountain, Misti, located in Peru. The pronunciation of Misti would be Mee-stee, simple and fluid in its sound, almost like a breath of fresh air. The imagery it conjures is one of crisp, cool, and ethereal landscapes, where snow softly blankets the earth beneath the mountain's towering presence. The word Misti evokes a sense of purity, clarity, and quiet strength—suggesting a serene yet striking beauty, much like the perfume itself. The emotional response to the name Misti may be one of calm, peacefulness, and the fleeting moment of dew on a cool morning.

The period in which Misti was launched, the early 1910s, was a time of significant transformation in the world, especially in fashion and social life. The years leading up to and including World War I were marked by shifts in style and attitude. Women, in particular, were embracing a new, more liberated way of dressing and living. The elaborate, corseted silhouettes of the Victorian era were being replaced by the more relaxed, flowing styles of the Edwardian period. The iconic "S-bend" corset was giving way to looser fits, with dresses that emphasized a natural waist and soft, draped fabrics. The Misti fragrance, with its delicate woodsy floral notes and "clean cut spiciness," would have appealed to women of this time who were stepping into a new sense of modernity and freedom. The 1910s were a time when women were asserting themselves more in the public sphere, entering the workforce in greater numbers and seeking fragrances that matched their evolving sense of independence and vitality.

Misti was described in a 1927 advertisement as capturing "the effect of a dew-drenched, moon-lit garden," and indeed, this delicate, woodsy floral fragrance perfectly embodies this idea. Its soft, fresh, and spiced scent evokes an image of a tranquil outdoor garden bathed in the gentle glow of moonlight. A "modernist version of the outdoors at large," as another advertisement from the same year described, Misti seems to encapsulate the purity and natural beauty of nature in a single, refined breath. Its "iridescence of a diamond," as noted in yet another ad, suggests a fragrance that is clear, sparkling, and sophisticated, just as diamonds are prized for their clarity and brilliance. Misti was promoted as a fragrance for "clear-cut youth and freshness," complementing the smart, day-to-day clothes worn by women of the time in both town and country settings. The imagery of "gardens in the sun" and "a spice of mischief teasing" adds a playful, lively dimension to the perfume, implying a fragrance that is both refined and spirited—a fitting match for the modern, adventurous woman.

Reve D'Or by LT Piver c1889

Rêve D’Or by L.T. Piver, launched in 1889, is a fragrance that evokes the allure of golden dreams, embodying both luxury and femininity in its name and composition. The French phrase Rêve D’Or translates to “dream of gold” or "golden dreams," with the word rêve meaning “dream” and d’or referring to “gold.” Pronounced as “rev dohrr,” the name conjures images of soft golden light, a dreamlike realm of opulence and beauty. This evocative title is a perfect match for the delicate blend of butterscotch and cream-colored petals of a particular breed of rose after which the fragrance is said to have been named, further enhancing the dream-like, ethereal quality of the scent.

When Rêve D’Or was introduced in the late 19th century, it arrived during a time of significant cultural and artistic change. The 1880s were part of the Belle Époque period, a time of flourishing arts, culture, and elegance in France, with innovations in fashion, literature, and design shaping the social landscape. The turn of the century saw the rise of femininity as an ideal, with women embracing the opulence of their appearance, their presence, and the world around them. The luxurious Rêve D’Or was conceived as a fragrance that would align with this evolving vision of femininity. Women in this era, especially those in fashionable Parisian circles, would have gravitated toward a scent that reflected their aspirations of grace, sophistication, and elegance. The fragrance’s association with golden roses added a layer of visual and emotional connection—romantic, soft, and poised, yet rich in its appeal.

The fragrance itself was initially released as a woman’s cologne, fitting into the fresh, floral trends of the late 19th century. Its sparkling top notes were added in 1905 with the incorporation of methyl aldehyde, which lent a radiant quality to the fragrance that would appeal to modern sensibilities of the time. The parfum extrait was then refined again in 1926, with Louis Armingeat’s reformulation further enhancing its appeal to a new generation of women. Despite the changes, Rêve D’Or retained its place in the hearts of those seeking a fragrance that reflected a timeless sense of femininity. The perfume’s suggestion for brunettes to wear it ties into an image of a graceful, elegant woman with a sophisticated and somewhat mysterious aura.